“Why do I suck at climbing?!” 6 tips for high gravity days at the crag
Photo by Emily Trombly
Last week I was talking with some friends about the benefits and drawbacks of focusing on achievement in climbing. We wondered: As non-professional climbers, why do we care at all about achievement? Shouldn’t we work to set aside our egoic desire to be validated by a number and focus instead on the simple enjoyment of movement, adventure, and being outside with our friends?
Yes and no. Over-emphasizing achievement can certainly be a losing game. If we’re pushing our limits in climbing, most days we won’t achieve. And on those days - the majority! - it’s easy to get bogged down by thoughts like “I should be able to do this” and “I wish I were as good as that person who’s warming up on my project.”
On the other hand, isn’t it magnificent to feel that rush of joy and relief when we finally do clip the chains or top out that climb we’ve been falling off of for so long? Maybe the days falling are what make the joy of sending so acute?
Enjoyment vs. achievement, we pondered. What if we could have it both ways?
We started to wonder: What does it take to embrace and celebrate the joy of accomplishing hard climbs, but not punish ourselves when we don’t?
6 tips for high-gravity climbing days
Celebrating a hard send is easy. But if we’re focused on limit climbing, most days won’t be sending days. It seems strange that to prioritize achievement in climbing we have to spend most of our time flailing. The way out of this conundrum, we decided, is to learn how to not beat ourselves up on those days when we “suck at climbing.”
Here are six tips to help you enjoy those “high gravity” days at the crag when everything feels hard.
1. Acknowledge yourself for showing up
At least you weren’t sitting at your desk, right?
Seriously, though. The first key to progress in any practice is to show up. Nothing else matters. There will be good days and bad days, but we keep showing up because that’s what practice is about.
When you’re feeling defeated, acknowledge yourself for being there and trying. Notice how this shifts your mood.
2. Celebrate micro-progress
Anyone who has ever projected a hard route or boulder knows that progress can be small. Sure, you didn’t send the climb. But is there any way in which you made progress?
See if you can identify and celebrate a tiny win. Maybe it was a new beta sequence or a move you did particularly well. Maybe you linked a new section of your climb or simply learned what not to do.
3. Laugh when you fail
There’s nothing inherently bad about failing on a rock climb when it’s safe to fall. If we’re upset about failing, it’s because we’re arguing with reality. We’re angry because we expected to send and we didn’t. We get frustrated because we “should” have been able to do it.
Laughter diffuses this immediately. Think to yourself: “What a funny monkey I am, getting angry at this rock I am trying to climb!” Let out a good chuckle and go back to rock climbing.
Remy Franklin climbing at The Grail. Photo by Emily Trombly
4. “What is there for me to learn?”
Curiosity is the opposite of frustration. When you’re not performing as well as you want to be, ask yourself: “What is there for me to learn from this moment?”
Your learning could be specific to the climb (“I need to climb this sequence differently”), related to your approach (“I can’t climb at my limit third day on”), or an insight about the future (“I want to get more comfortable smearing on small footholds”).
There’s always something to learn. As soon as you focus on it you will start enjoying the experience more.
5. Get familiar with your “signposts”
One of the biggest barriers to enjoying climbing on poor performance days is that we often don’t notice that we’ve stopped having fun. When we get hyper-focused on performing, it’s like we put blinders on and forget to look up and notice the view.
The key is to learn your personal “signposts” for when you’ve gotten too zoomed in on accomplishment. Signposts can be actions, thoughts, or emotions. Maybe you start being rude to your belayer, or you try a move over and over again without adequate rest. Maybe you think “I’ll never do this climb,” or you feel overwhelmed, defeated, or tight in your chest.
Use these signposts as cues that you’re “in it.” Then pause, take a breath and shift the focus of your attention using one of the other tips on this list.
6. Climb something easier
Most climbers love climbing, even if it’s not hard. But when we’re too focused on accomplishment it’s easy to forget this.
When you’re having a high gravity day, consider climbing a few easier routes that you know you’ll succeed on. Really, though. How often do you go to the gym or crag and climb only routes well below your limit?
Maybe your high gravity day is an opportunity to remember what you love about climbing.
Look up and appreciate the scenery. Fist bump your belayer and appreciate their companionship. Marvel at your skill compared to several years ago. Feel the gift of an able body that can move on stone.
Written by Remy Franklin | www.remyfranklin.com | @remyfranklin
